Huascaran, the Auquis Matash Raju, occupies the central part of the Cordillera Blanca. it is the highest snow-capped mountain in Peru and the highest tropical snow-capped mountain on the planet; its two North and South summits were first climbed in 1908 by the North Peak and in 1932 by the South.
The mountain is separated from the rest of the chain by two deep valleys: Llanganuco to the north and Ulta to the south. The closest cities are Carhuas and Yungay.
Note:
In our itinerary we can calculate one more day to take a break, for any emergency such as weather, a health problem or to climb the snowy Quitaraju.
We recommend 3 to 4 days of acclimatization. This will allow you to fully Discover and Enjoy Alpamayo!
Itinerary:
We set out on this fascinating adventure from Huaraz, taking a paved road to the North passing through Carhuas, Tingua, Mancos and in Musho. One of our muleteers and his donkeys awaits us to start the ascent of the highest mountain in Peru. After a few hours of walking we will arrive at the foot of Huascaran, where we will install our first camp.
Walking time: 6 to 7 hours approximately.
Approximate difference in altitude: 1158 m ascent.
After breakfast and after packing all the climbing, camping and kitchen equipment, we will start walking with the help of porters and with the direction of one of our guides towards the moraine field. The view on the way to the north of Callejón de Huaylas and the Cordillera Negra is wonderful. After a few hours of walking we will arrive at our Soguilla camp.
Walking time: 3 to 4 hours approximately.
Approximate difference in altitude: 500 m. going up.
After spending a pleasant night under the shadow of the Apus Huascaran and after breakfast we will start with a slow and safe ascent to Camp I.
Day two and today are days of travel, short walks that are perfect for acclimatization and fulfill the objective of crowning the summit of the majestic Huascaran.
Walking time: 4 to 5 hours approximately.
Approximate difference in altitude: 600 m of ascent.
This day we will start the ascent very early between 3:00 to 4:00 a.m, because each time our expedition becomes more demanding. After crossing an avalanche area, we will arrive at our next camp located in the heart of the Huascaran, between its two impressive peaks.
Walking time: 6 to 7 hours approximately.
Approximate difference in altitude: 700 m of ascent.
At last, the long-awaited day has arrived, the summit of the highest mountain in Peru awaits us. We will start between 12:00 a.m. and 1:00 a.m. fully equipped and under the direction of one of our expert Mountain Guides. After going through crevases, gutters, and ice walls we will reach the roof of Peru and the summit of the highest tropical snow-capped mountain in the world, “Huascaran” . After taking photos and enjoying a wonderful view, we will return to Camp II where you can rest and regenerate and then we will continue to Camp I or the moraine according to the physical condition of the group.
Walking time: 11 to 12 hours approximately.
Approximate difference in altitude: 768 m uphill and 2068 m downhill.
After having dreamed together with the condors and having fulfilled the dream of crowning the summit of Huascaran, we will descend to base camp and from there, with the help of the donkeys, to the town of Musho, where our driver will be waiting ready to transfer us to Huaraz.
Walking time: 5 to 6 hours approximately.
Approximate difference in altitude: 1658 m of descent.
Services:
Our programs included:
- Pick up from the bus station.
- Acclimatization day hike around of Huaraz.
- Private transport to and from Huaraz.
- Official Mountain Guide AGMP, UIAGM
- Porters.
- Cook.
- All meals during the expedition: 05 meals. Breakfast, Snack, Lunch, tea (hot chocolate, pop corn, salad of avocado) and Dinner. Coca tea every day in the morning to wake up. “Hot wine the last night”
- Hot water for washing.
- Basic first aid kit.
- Donkeys, Muleteers.
- Climbing equipment: Helmet, Harness, Carabineers, Rope, Gaiters, Boots, Crampons and ice axe. (We recommend bring your technical equipment for difficult peaks as Alpamayo, Huascaran and others)
- Camping Equipment: Cooking tent, Dinner tent, Toilet Tent. Sleeping tent (3 people tent for 2 clients Sierra designs, Eureka). 02 sleeping mats per person (inflatable and classic mattress). Table, chairs, Stove, gas, and all kitchen utensils.
- Pisco sour and souvenirs for celebrate your expedition.
- Banner with your name and of the trek.
Our program does not include:
- Entrance fees to: Huascaran National Park (Cordillera Blanca) $ 22.00
- Huayhuash Mountain range $ 78.00
- Return from our tour before the arranged date: transport, food and possible accommodation costs (also for staff). Tips
- Sleeping bag.
- Breakfast on the first day.
- Dinner on the last nigh.